Send key components to machine shop for health check
When I started in on the engine I wasn't yet committed to a total rebuild. I suppose I was hoping to inspect it, clean it up, tune it up and drive.
The first step was to get the engine on a stand and into Bill's engine room. This meant hoisting it up off the floor (where it had sit since being removed
from the car in March, 2004). Once on the hoist I removed the clutch progressively, then the flywheel, being careful to mark and note the clutch's position on the
flywheel, and the flywheel's position on the crankshaft. With the clutch and flywheel removed, I mounted the engine to a stand and rolled it into the engine room
at Bigger Hammer Racing.
The first step of my inspection revealed that a total rebuild would be needed. When I dropped the sump I found roughly a dozen or so pieces
of metal about 1/2 inch long with the thinness of foil. Not knowing where these came from, nor what damage they might have done to the engine, meant that
exploration was in order, which meant a rebuild. Resigned to my fate, yet thankful for the early revelation, I began tearing the engine down in earnest.
The Tear-Down
The first step was to become an academic expert on the engine. I studied accounts of other's rebuild projects (special thanks to Brian Sanborn and David Connitt), the workshop manual and
engine technology in general. When I got to the point where I could assemble the whole engine in my head, I knew I was ready to start. I had already removed a good deal of the ancillary engine components (manifolds, fuel pump, oil filter, etc.) back in February 2004, so I didn't have much work left to do.
I proceeded removing what was left by following the disassembly order found in the workshop manual. One thing I cannot stress enough is photographing everything before taking it apart.
If something needs to line up to the same place as before, be sure to mark it and photograph that. When a part comes off, label it and store it with the other parts in a dedicated spot.
In my case this is a huge RubberMaid box which I purchased for the express purpose of holding my engine parts.
Some highlights of the tear-down included:
When removing studs from the head and block, make certain that you know where to put them back in later. I labeled mine using the numbers from the workshop manual.
To remove a stud, place two nuts together on the stud, lock them tightly together, then rotate the stud from the hole using the BOTTOM nut. DO NOT try vice-grips etc. on the stud itself
as this may damage it to the point of making it worthless.
I found that the crankshaft was surprisingly big and heavy.
I needed a special tool to pull the front pulley from the crankshaft end.
Removing the front main cap was more difficult than it should have been. I ended up using a hammer and a piece of 2x4 to knock it back and forth while lifting up at the same time.
The bracket securing the alternator to the block was BROKEN! After noticing this, I noticed that the engine plate was also bent on the same side. My guess is that something happened to cause the bend in the plate, which eventually caused the bracket to break.
After completely disassembling the engine, I took the crankshaft, block, head and con rods to Arlington Automobile Machine Shop to have them checked for cracks, as well as to determine their general reuse prospects.
Until I get news back from them, I am not purchasing any parts or doing any additional work as any major issues on these components would make me consider purchasing another engine altogether. In the meantime I will
seek additional knowledge, create a good rebuild plan and price out replacement parts.
The content of this page in intended only to communicate my own thoughts, actions and opinions while restoring my own automobile.
It is not meant to serve as instruction for others to do maintenance on their vehicles.
