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Body Restoration (1/2007 - ongoing)
  • Learn About Body Work
  • Develop Body Plan
  • Design and Build Dolly
  • Mount Body Tub to Dolly
  • Remove Everything from Sheet Metal
  • Test-Fit all Panels, then Remove
  • Finalize Body Plan
  • Take Body to Metal Rehab for Cleaning and Priming


Getting Ready
With the engine rebuilt and the gearbox sent off to the shop for rebuilding, it's time to start looking at the body work. I spent the first three months of 2007 learning what body work was all about. I had a rough idea, but I needed to "do the math" for myself to get comfortable with what I was taking on.

The first thing I needed to do was to understand the scale and scope of the project. To this end I took an inventory of all the body components which included photographing each part. Once this inventory was completed, I put together a rough plan of how I would proceed with the body work, allowing an option for either myself, or a professional, to do the actual painting.

As I was putting together the plan, I designed and constructed a dolly for the body tub. At the time, the body tub was still suspended from the rafters of my father in-law's shop. In order to do any work, I needed to bring it within reach, but in a way where it could easily be moved around the shop to get it out of the way. What I ended up designing was a heavy-duty box made from 2x12's, bolted to four corner posts made of 4x4s. The four bottom corners mated to 10" pneumatic swivel-casters for easy handling over rough surfaces (like rolling it onto trailers for eventual transport). The four top corners accept the body tub, mimicking the chassis mounting points themselves.

On March 18th I lowered the body tub onto the dolly and it was a perfect fit, and balanced nicely to boot. It's not perfect in that it's a little rear-heavy (that trunk bottom adds a lot of weight) but it doesn't tip or anything. With the body tub secured to the dolly, I am able to roll it all over the shop and get to every surface, including the bottom.

Preparing
This was, by far, an easy step in the project. Metal Rehab's process harms anything that is not a ferrous metal. That means aluminum, bronze, etc. is not welcome. So, I set about removing anything from the body components that was not sheet metal. This included:
  • All buttons, snaps and assundry fasteners. These were all drilled out.
  • The five riv-nuts used to secure the hood's back plate to the body tub
  • All clips used to secure the quarter panels to the body tub
  • All clips used to secure the rubber and felt seals to the tops of the doors
In addition to removing all things from the sheet metal, I also drilled new holes just behind the seats for the future installation of shoulder-belt mountings.

The last step was to build the body using a brand-new body mounting kit so I could get a feel for how it would go together. I was rewarded for this effort because it showed that I had a non-flush weld of the front valance to the left edge of the tub. I never would have discovered this if I had not test mounted the left-front quarter panel!  So, it pays to do this step.

Planning
Armed with the experience of tearing the body down, removing all things from the sheet metal and test fitting all the components, I set about finalizing the overall body plan. (To download a copy of the plan, click here). One of the first things I did was to get a complete list of problems I wanted cured by a body professional. This was important to do because as I visit with potential professionals to get estimates and advice, I want them to know exactly what I've identified so far. This will help them give me a better estimate.

Cleaning & Priming
On January 20th, 2010, I took all the body components to Metal Rehab to have them cleaned and primed. (Metal Rehab uses a PPG epoxy primer. I selected black because black really shows the imperfections to the painter, and is the ideal color to match the BRG I plan on having the car painted.) On the way I stopped at a body shop candidate to get an estimate for curing all the issues I have identified to that point, as well as getting everything painted.

Metal Rehab has an optional package where they will photo-document the process at their shop, which I decided to purchase for an additional $50. I've been very diligent about documenting this restoration, and having those photos will ensure I do not have a giant gap in the record.


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Copyright © 2003-2010 Guy D. Huggins. All Rights Reserved.

The content of this page in intended only to communicate my own thoughts, actions and opinions while restoring my own automobile. It is not meant to serve as instruction for others to do maintenance on their vehicles.